Thursday, December 23, 2010

Bimmah Sink (Hwaiyat Najm Park)

An unusual natural swimming pool, Bimmah sinkhole provides an easily accessible diversion on the way to Sur from Muscat.  It is about 50 metres across and apparently no-one really knows how deep, although given the briny nature of the water, it presumably connects to the nearby sea.  If you swim across the pool, a handy rope allows you to haul yourself onto the rocky ledge, from where you can throw yourself into the bottomless depths.  You can also swim around the edge of the pool into a cave, or practice bouldering by trying to clamber up the sides of the sinkhole from the water.  For those who prefer to just get their feet wet, the fish in the pool are of the 'feet nibbling' variety, so you can have a natural pedicure while you watch others demonstrate their athleticism. 

It would definitely be a bit spooky to be there alone (the Arabic name for the site means 'House of Demons') but its proximity to the highway means that is unlikely.  This is one of the rare wild swims in Oman with changing facilities and toilets, and there is no charge.

Directions

Take the coast road from Muscat towards Sur and Hwaiyat Najm Park is signposted from the highway.  Turn off the highway and go under the road towards the coast, then take the left turn at the T-junction.  After a few hundred yards, you will see the entrance to the park (which is fenced off) – park just outside.  The sinkhole itself is a couple of minutes walk from the entrance along a flat, landscaped path, although there are steep steps down the water itself.

4WD?
Not needed

Time from Muscat
1.5 hours drive

Walking time
5 minutes (easy walk)

Wadi Tiwi

Forget wadi bashing with destructive four wheel drives – wadi scrambling is far more fun.  The pools that line the base of this wadi are littered with boulders and a great way to pass an afternoon is scrambling over the rocks and wading through the water to explore the area.  The walk up through the villages is also very pleasant and you can spend an hour exploring the falaj irrigation systems, looking for frogs among the date palms.  There are paths down from the villages to the wadi bed to access the pools, or you can follow the wadi bed all the way up, wading through the pools as you come across them.

The wadi is reasonably accessible and quieter than its more popular neighbour, Wadi Shab.  The pools aren't really deep enough for proper swimming but it's a lovely place for a fairly gentle 'swexpedition' (swimming expedition), if you carry your clothes in a waterproof bag.  If you don't want to walk too far, or are limited by time, a quick paddle in the lower pools would make a good break on the drive between Sur and Muscat.

Please dress conservatively – perhaps swim in shorts and a t-shirt.   

Directions

Take the coast road from Muscat towards Sur and Tiwi is signposted from the highway.  Turn off the highway and go under the road, then take the right turn.  The road winds its way round to the entrance of the wadi (and become a rubbly track, so you may choose to park up and walk the rest of the way if you're in a saloon car).  Note that there are a couple of pools near the entrance to the wadi, but the best ones are further up – follow the wadi bed (rather than the road) to find them.

4WD?
Not needed (although helpful on the last stretch)

Time from Muscat
2 hours drive

Walking time
10 minutes – all day (depending on how far up the wadi you go and where you park)

Wadi Bani Khalid

One of the more touristy spots in Oman is also one of the loveliest.  Wadi Bani Khalid is relatively well-developed, with a sealed road, proper car park and restaurant/toilet facilities.  The lower reaches of the wadi consist of a series of large deep emerald pools.  Although swimming in these is not encouraged due to their depth, people do and confident swimmers should be fine.  However, the real glory of the wadi is further up, away from the tourist throngs.  Follow the path (rocky and at time involving some scrambling) up the wadi and you will find crystalline limestone gorges and pools which eventually reach a set of stairs leading to a cave, which the intrepid may choose to explore (take a torch to get the full experience).

On the way back down the wadi, stop in the many pools to cool off.  There are a couple of places with chains to swing from and there is a great rock to jump off in one of the pools, plus a natural rock slide connecting two of them.  The bleached rock and blue water makes for some great photos.

Directions

Wadi Bani Khalid is off the inland Muscat-Sur road (road 23).  From Bidbid, take the road towards Sur and about half an hour after the Al Mintarib turnoff (one of the main exits to access the Wahiba Sands), the wadi is signposted off to the left.  You follow a sealed road quite a way before hitting a restaurant and then a few minutes further on, the car park.

4WD?
Not needed

Time from Muscat
3-4 hours drive

Walking time
5-45 minutes (depending on how far up the wadi you go)

Type of swim
Swimming, adventure, paddling